Nikko

10.7.07
After taking several different forms of transport (foot, JR train, and metro), Lauren and I finally arrived at the Asakasa train station. It took us a while to figure out where we needed to purchase our “All Nikko Pass” that is only available to foreigners looking to stay in Nikko for only a few days. The pass is very economical since it includes a round trip train ticket to Nikko, unlimited bus fare around Nikko, and other discounts on some of the Nikko attractions. We found the little shop selling these passes and were waited on by a sweet natured Japanese woman who clearly told us what train we would have to board. She also gave us some other information about the different Nikko busses; those that would take us to the more popular Nikko attractions.

Since our train wasn’t scheduled to leave for another 45 minutes, Lauren and I agreed that we should rest our bones at the three story Asakasa Starbucks. Lauren ordered some Earl Gray tea and a croissant. It was really early and she needed the caffeine. I think the two tea bags left in her venti (large) container should’ve done the trick. I got some strawberry and banana juice and a cinnamon scone. The juice was good and the container was cute. It even came with an intriguing retractable straw. It was really quite relaxing sitting in the suede chairs, listening to the background jazz music, all the while, waiting for our watches to tell us that it was time to leave.

Starbuck's Juice

We walked to the platform and waited for our train (Tobu Nikko Section Rapid) to arrive. There was a train waiting to go to a nearby location on the same track. We couldn’t help but take advantage of this perfect photo opportunity. Our train arrived about five minutes after the previous train left. We got on and positioned ourselves in two face to face window seats. I couldn’t help but feel a rush of excitement as our train pulled out of the station. It wasn’t long before the rooftops and crowded city streets of Tokyo were replaced by far reaching green farm land and quaint country homes. I saw some statues in the tall grass, and after asking Lauren her opinion, she explained they were Japanese graves. We also passed a local temple in the center of a patch of trees, a cucumber factory, and some beautiful gardens. Some of the stations we stopped at where so small; simply a platform in the middle of a field of crops. Lauren and I took a big gulp of the fresh air as the train doors were opened briefly at these small farm towns. I love the bustle of the city but the country air is so much sweeter.

We were taking pictures and waiting for our train to come.

The Japanese countryside/farmland.

When we finally arrived in Nikko, we walked through the station and out into the streets filled with tourists buying gifts from the various souvenir shops to take home for their friends, families, and work. In Japan it is customary to bring back presents (omiyage) after going on vacation; even it’s only for a day. Since it was an early Sunday afternoon when we finally arrived in Nikko, there were many visitors walking around. We walked down the main street of Nikko and headed towards our Japanese inn. Our senses were busy taking in all they could. We arrived at the Joshiya Inn, a Japanese style inn run by a nice Japanese couple. There was a little confusion about arrival times but all was worked out and we were given the keys to our small but comfortable room. Of all the people staying at the small inn (it had about 5 or 6 rooms in total), there were quite a few foreign guests. The majority of them were German. We unloaded our belongings and headed out into the Nikko streets to see what we could find. We stopped to get some freshly made senbei crackers rapped in seaweed (nori). It was deliciously salty. We walked passed Nikko’s sacred bridge, which matches the bright “apple” red color of the shrines. Just past the bridge was the entrance to the Nikko National Park. This park houses some of the most famous temples and shrines in Japan. In 1999, an international pact for the protection of these 8^th Century shrines was signed; thus, justifying their cultural importance as it was recognized by the world.

The Sacred Bridge of Nikko.

We first went into the Sanbuto (three Buddhas) or Rinnoji Temple which held three huge (8 meters tall) gold Buddhist statues sitting on lotus blossoms: Batohkannon (a horse looking god), Amida Nyorai, and Senjukannon (a god with many arms). Many people come to visit this temple to pray for a peaceful nation and world peace. Lauren and I wondered if the states were made of solid gold or if they were only decorated in gold leaf. As we left, there were zodiac statues in glass cases; you could offer prayers to your respective sign if you wished to do so.

As we walked out of the temple it was a little hazy outside. It only took me a minute more to realize that the sweet smelling incense that drifted through the air was the culprit. We walked past a prayer room filled with small little stools. A lady in was sweeping the “alter”-like space as we looked on with interest.

Next we went into the Toshogu Shrine complex that held some of the more famous shrines including the three monkeys (hear no evil, see no evil, and speak no evil), the sleeping cat, and many others. We took our shoes off in order to enter a shrine (I don’t know the name of it because they took my ticket with the name on it at the entrance before I could protest.) that is known for being the first roofed shrine. Most shrines are open, but a roof was added to this particular shrine so that the Shogunate would be able to visit during both the wintery and rainy months. There were also paintings of various Shoguns that decorated the walls and ceilings. These were very old and when they were first done, revolutionary pigmentation and painting techniques were used.

This is was taken at the Three Monkeys Shrine.

The carving on the shrines is very very intricate.

The Toshogo Shrine Complex

The third and final shrine that we went into was the Yakushidoh Shrine. It is known for the giant dragon that fills the entire ceiling. The legend has it that the dragon only hears the prayers of those that are directly underneath it; so that they are looking into its eyes. The guide demonstrated this effect using two wooden blocks. When he clicked the two blocks together on the other side of the room nothing exciting happened, but when the blocks were clicked together directly underneath the dragon’s gaze, the sound reverberated within the shrine. The guide also said that if you look closely the dragon’s eyes will shake with the sound like he’s looking right at you. There were lots of “oooo’s” and “ahhh’s” from the crowd of people surrounding me.

By this time it was getting pretty late and Lauren and I were about ready to go to bed so we headed back to our Japanese inn after getting something to eat.

10.8.07
After waking up at 7:30am, Lauren and I enjoyed our Japanese breakfast which included salad, rice, miso soup, tea, and a plate of other Japanese foods such sweet egg, salmon, uba (a very thin tofu that is the specialty of Nikko), and some vegetables. It was a lot of food and I tried as much as I could fit into my stomach. We had a big day ahead of us and I would need lots of energy.

On the way to the bus we stopped into a woodcarver’s shop. The owner was a very nice lady who told Lauren that she had just recently opened the shop this past April after working as a wood engraver for many years.

We took the Tobu bus up a very windy mountain and stopped half way up to ride the rope way. Lauren told me that the bus driver was warning the passengers that they should expect delays due to the weather. Evidently the night before there had been several mud slides because of the rain. The road was very curvy and we were both very glad to get off at the rope way stop. We were both feeling queasy. The rope way was very short (a three minute ride) and the view from the top was amazing! We could see Lake Chuzenji, which was our next stop after the rope way, and Kegon Falls. Kegon Falls, for all intense purposes is fed by Lake Chuzenji. From the entrance of the rope way we were about 1274 km above sea level (that's about 792 miles).

This is a picture of the rope way from the ground.

A picture of the rope way taken from its summit.

We got back on the bus and went all the way to the village of Lake Chuzenji where we first went to take a look at Kegon Falls. Kegon Falls reminded me of the waterfall I saw in Ithica (it starts with a T but I can’t remember it right now) with friends. It was so beautiful and mesmerizing. Next we decided to visit one of the local onsens because we heard that they are unlike any other. It was very relaxing and we were about to head back until we realized we hadn’t seen the lake itself! We walked up and down the main street and were surprised by some of the things we saw. For example, we saw someone selling uba ice cream. Tofu flavored ice cream? After seeing the lake we headed back down the windy mountain roads.

Kegon Falls

Lake Chuzenji

When we got back to Nikko it was around 6pm and already dark. Lauren and I stopped into this restaurant not far from our hotel. It was a little place with notes, dollar bills, and photos tacked up all over the wall. We ordered dinner, but while we waited, we couldn’t help but stare at the ceiling and walls covered in mementos from tourists that had eaten in the tiny little place. Perhaps the diversity of the customers was partially due to the sign that said “Vegetarians Welcome” in and also listed some of the other menu options in Spanish. I laughed when I noticed an MTA metro card pinned up on the wall right behind me.

The Foreigner restaurant. If you look closely you can see
an MTA metro card in the lower left corner. :)

Lauren and I walked back to our room, watched SMAP, and went to bed. Our second day in Nikko was complete and we had enjoyed every minute of it.

10.9.07
Again we woke up for our early breakfast, finished packing, and said our goodbyes to the kind inn keeper and her husband. We stopped to get some last minute souvenirs and were just in time to catch our train back to Asakasa.

We were welcomed back to Asakasa with holiday travelers; it was a public holiday and everyone was walking the streets. We dropped off our bags in a train station locker and decided to walk around Asakasa which is known for the traditional Japanese goods sold by its markets. We walked through the shrine gates and into an area in front lined with shops. We ogled around, went into the shrine, and looked at a flower arrangement competition. Lauren explained to me that flower arrangements in Japan are very particular. Plants must be specifically placed in order to maintain order within the arrangement. This placement represents members of a family (i.e. the father, mother, and children) and their roles within the family. I had no idea.

The shops are decorated for autumn.

The Asakasa Shrine is bustling with people on this day off (national holiday).

Japanese Style Peeps?

We walked around a bit more and were ready to head home. While, I missed the fresh country air of Nikko, it was nice to walk into my apartment and sit down on my bed. You can say either “Home sweet home” or “Uchi sweet uchi”—whichever you prefer.

10.10.07
Today Lauren and I went to the market by our house and the florist introduced himself to us. Yes, us gaijin are easy to spot; we stick out like a pink elephant in a field of green grass. He said “Hello!” and asked us where we were from. When Lauren said a sentence in Japanese he was very delighted and complimented her on her skillz. He also asked us to give him English lessons. To this we replied that we could come to the market often just to talk to him. We told him we would see him later and he told us we were “beautiful”.

10.11.07
Back to work today! So until next time, I hope you are all doing quite well!